Globally, the anti-inflammatory skin care ingredients market can expect anticipate a CAGR of 7.0% from 2024 – 2031, Report Prime projects.1 In relation, Spherical Insights reported in June 2023 that the global sensitive skin care market was valued at US $44.75 billion in 2022, with an expected CAGR of 7.3% from 2023 to 2032 to reach $90.53 billion.2
Put them together, and as Doyle describes it, you have the Gentle Skin Care Revolution.3 “‘Sensitive skin will become the new normal,’” Doyle writes, per WGSN, “’and a [gentler] approach to skin care will emerge, where products work with the skin rather than against it.’”
Recent work disclosed in the patent literature for cosmetic product development reveals a similar theme. Procter & Gamble, for example, describes a low-pH skin care composition to “provide good sensory properties and [with] low skin irritation potential.”4
According to the patent, conventional skin care is typically formulated at neutral pH for a variety of reasons but it has been found that certain skin care ingredients such as vitamin B3 compounds and saccharides may be more efficacious at low pH – although formulating low pH skin care products can pose challenges in terms of sensory properties and potential irritant effects.
Per the inventors, however, "it has been discovered that a low pH skin care composition that includes niacinamide, a polymer thickener, a low molecular weight silicone oil and a sodium lactate/lactic acid pH buffering system can provide an efficacious skin care product that does not irritate the skin and has better sensory properties.”
Beiersdorf outlines new isobutyramide derivatives and their use for the treatment and prevention of sensitive, inflamed or inflammatory skin conditions.5 Yves-Rocher explores a meristem extract6 from Otanthus maritimus, or cotton weed, to impart anti-aging, soothing and anti-inflammatory effects. Reportedly, the inventors, obtained results on cellular renewal of the epidermis; barrier function, in particular keratinocyte differentiation; and inhibition of pro-inflammatory mediators.6
In addition, Galderma describes7 personal care compositions for reducing signs of aging in sensitive skin comprising niacinamide, Leontopodium alpinum extract, Oryza sativa lees extract, panthenol and soy-derived glycopeptides. These were reported to "modulate biochemical indicators associated with premature skin aging in response to pollution."
More specifically, the compositions significantly reduced (66%) the number of mitochondria-associated endoplasmic reticulum membranes (MAMs) in cells injured by pollution. Per the patent, MAMs are sites where the inflammasome forms – and urban pollution increases MAMs in the presence of damaged mitochondria, contributing to aging via “inflammaging.”7
Considering these market and research dynamics, C&T additionally sought insights from industry experts on current and future directions for this market. Following are the experts' responses.
Rapid Effects and Soothing Benefits
Mariana Yamamoto, global skin care product and marketing manager of Chemyunion, Ltda., writes, “The concept of ‘inflammaging’ isn’t new; in fact, it was introduced during the 2000s. Today, the modern cosmetics consumer, armed with easy access to information and scientific knowledge, comprehends the effects of both internal and external factors on skin health.”
Yamamoto adds that the proliferation of knowledge can be attributed to the significant population experiencing skin sensitivity. “Studies have shown that 71% of the general global population self-reported sensitive skin, to some degree. The relationship between sensitive skin and aging cements ‘inflammaging’ as a widely acknowledged phenomenon. Consequently, there's a demand for cosmetic products that cater to these consumers’ issues.”
In terms of future directions, Yamamoto believes today’s consumers increasingly seek rapid outcomes, creating widespread popularity of resurfacing ingredients such as retinoids and AHAs that give the skin immediate results. “For consumers suffering with chronic inflammation, products that are too strong for their skin may worsen the situation. Therefore, the market is expanding to accommodate products that alleviate irritation, calm the skin and offer anti-aging benefits without causing adverse effects.”
Two examples of solutions that address this emerging dynamic, per Yamamoto, include Physavie 250 (INCI: Physalis Angulata Extract (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) and Revinage (INCI: Bidens Pilosa Extract (and) Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil (and) Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil (and) Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil.
“Physavie 250, a natural extract, effectively calms the skin – comparable to hydrocortisone – and shields collagen from external stressors,” Yamamoto explains. “Revinage provides anti-aging benefits by serving as a natural retinol alternative, delivering similar effectiveness and advantages without irritating the skin or inducing adverse effects.”
Longevity and Anti-senescence
Christophe Paillet, head of cosmetic ingredients for Exsymol, observes that while anti-aging is widely promoted, it is rare to see brands openly claiming inflammaging. He adds, “This approach is still considered through two distinct axes: inflammation and aging.
“Nevertheless, brands are now starting to envisage inflammaging as a whole, featuring a low-grade yet cumulative inflammation as causing premature aging.” He notes that the relevant active ingredients are also limited either to those with anti-inflammatory properties or to others with traditional anti-aging activities (e.g., anti-free radicals or antioxidants).
He continues, “Environmental issues [also] have raised awareness of the impact of the exposome among the general public. [Thus], inflammaging features are now one of the most promising approaches to meet consumer expectations.”
Considering future directions, Paillet underscores that the characteristics of inflammaging are perhaps the most powerful and insidious at the cellular level, offering key targets. He refers to the concept of senescence, noting that it sometimes carries a negative perception (i.e., related to senility) but adds, “[this] negativity vanishes as soon as cellular senescence is mentioned.”
Furthermore, he expresses, “A smart way to deliver this message to consumers is to invoke the more popular notion of ‘longevity,’ resulting naturally from anti-senescence activity. [The] largest multinationals have actually acknowledged their research programs in this area.”
Per Paillet, to address some of these future directions, Exsymol has chosen an original approach: embracing longevity and anti-senescence. He gives the ingredient example of Scutaline (INCI: Scutelaria Baicalensis Extract).
“Thanks to our patented extraction process, the extract is standardized in baicalein and wogonin. Scutaline focuses on inflammaging and cellular senescence, and provides novel answers via the anti-SASP approach (inhibition of the NFκB pathway). The anti-senescence effect is then addressed thanks to the reactivation of natural senolysis (i.e., the natural clearance of senescent cells by the cells of the immune system).”
Conclusions
The recent focus on reducing inflammation, sensitivity and irritation potential is a reflection of the industry's embrace of skin health for holistic beauty.
References
1. Issuu. (2024, Apr 5). Global anti-inflammatory skincare ingredients market CAGR 7%. Report Prime. Available at https://issuu.com/reportprime-2/docs/anti-inflammatory-skincare-ingredients-market-size.
2. Spherical Insights. (2023, Jun). Global sensitive skin care products market size, share and COVID-19 impact analysis, by product type (face care, body care and lip care), by gender (male and female), by distribution channel (supermarkets and hypermarkets, specialty stores, pharmacy and drugstores, online, and others), by region (North America, Europe, Asia-Pacific, Latin America, Middle East and Africa), analysis and forecast 2022 – 2032. Available at https://www.sphericalinsights.com/reports/sensitive-skin-care-products-market
3. Doyle, L. (2024, Apr 1). The gentle skin care revolution. Global Cosmetic Industry. Available at https://www.gcimagazine.com/brands-products/skin-care/article/22888389/the-gentle-skin-care-revolution
4. Zhang, L., Chakravarty, S. and Zukowski, J.M. (2024, Feb 27). Low pH skin care composition and methods of using the same (U.S. Pat 11911498). Free Patents Online. Available at https://www.freepatentsonline.com/11911498.html
5. Kolbe, L., Reuter, J.H., Kamal, A. and Seidel, J. (2023, Oct 5). New isobutyramide derivatives, cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations containing said compounds, and their use for the prophylaxis and treatment of sensitive, in particular inflamed skin or inflammatory skin conditions (U.S. Pat Appl 20230312495). Free Patents Online. Available at https://www.freepatentsonline.com/y2023/0312495.html
6. Lubrano, C. (2024, Jan 11). An extract of meristematic cells of Otanthus maritimus and its uses, in particular cosmetics (WO2024009041A1; in French). Google Patents. Available at https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2024009041A1
7. Grivet-Seyve, M., Knapik Ceccon, R.V., Joly-Tonetti, N., Le Noel, V., Pascal-Suisse, S.T.B., Lachmann, N.M., Cho, H.D. and Seo, J.Y. (2023, Oct 5). Personal care compositions for sensitive skin and methods of use (WO2023192538A1). Google Patents. Available at https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023192538A1
