New Jersey-based Modern Meadow is getting out of the beauty business. The sustainable biomaterials producer has sold its beauty and biomedical divisions to France-based HTL Biotechnology, a producer of pharmaceutical-grade polymers.
HTL Biotechnology Acquires rhCOL3 Collagen Tech
The deal prominently includes Modern Meadow's recombinant protein platform for producing materials such as vegan human recombinant collagen type III (rhCOL3), which was developed in the United States and produced in Europe and is applicable in cosmetics and aesthetics.
The acquisition propels HTL Biotechnology into the $9.76 billion global collagen market, which is forecast to grow 9.6% annually between 2024 and 2030, driven by cosmetics and other sectors.
"Recombinant human collagen stands out as a highly promising biomaterial, playing a pivotal role in crucial areas such as wound healing, stroma regeneration, and orthopedics," according to a 2024 report in the journal Frontiers in Bioengineering and Biotechnology.
The report adds, "[R]ecombinant collagens are designed to emulate the post-translational modifications seen in natural collagens, such as hydroxylation and glycosylation, thereby achieving a high degree of similarity to human collagen ... Recombinant human collagen produced via biotechnological methods can overcome ... limitations associated with xenogeneic or allogeneic collagen."
Recombinant collagen technologies have been suggested for hair loss solutions and has generated funding from beauty multinationals.
Recombinant collagen has also been paired with four peptides in L'Oreal Paris' Age Perfect Collagene Royal, which is designed to restore skin elasticity and boost brightness.
HTL Biotechnology's GMP biofermentation expertise is expected to support this newly acquired platform to develop "disruptive innovations, leveraging a combination of biopolymers and accelerating the company's innovative capabilities," per HTL.
Modern Meadow's beauty industry engagement has included launches from companies such as Evonik.
In February 2024, Evonik unveiled Vecollage Fortify L, a biotech-based, vegan, skin-identical and sustainable collagen for beauty applications such as anti-aging and hydrating creams.
The material was developed in partnership with Modern Meadow Inc., which first developed vegan, biocompatible collagen under the Bio-Coll@gen brand.
Vecollage Fortify L reportedly positively impacts the skin's middle layer, the dermis, to prevent age-related degradation while also stimulating the skin’s own collagen production.
The launch of Vecollage Fortify L is part of a broader move by Evonik to develop non-animal and sustainable collagen.
HTL Biotechnology's Growing Ingredient Portfolio & US Presence
In the wake of the acquisition, HTL Biotechnology's portfolio includes, in addition to human recombinant collagens, pharmaceutical-grade hyaluronic acid, polynucleotides, and products in development such as heparosan and botulinum toxin.
The company's North American foothold will grow, featuring HTL Biotechnology Manufacturing Inc. in Massachusetts and a new organization based in Nutley, New Jersey.
François Fournier, CEO of HTL Biotechnology, said, "I am thrilled with the commercialization of this new vegan biopolymer, the diversification of our activity, and the prospects that this acquisition gives us to innovate even further, together. HTL Biotechnology thus becomes a pioneer in the market for human recombinant collagen, where the company was a pioneer 30 years ago in the bioproduction of hyaluronic acid. The depth of our biopolymer portfolio is unique, and it is with great pride that we will be able to serve our clients even better. I am delighted to welcome, on behalf of HTL Biotechnology, the beauty and biomedical teams from Modern Meadow."
Fournier added, "This strategic acquisition marks an acceleration in the development of HTL Biotechnology, its international expansion, and the diversification of its portfolio. It reinforces its leadership position in biopolymers by offering a broad and innovative range" comments Paul Navarre, Chairman of HTL Biotechnology.
