In-cosmetics Global 2025, held April 8-10 in Amsterdam, was packed with innovative ideas in beauty. From longevity and molecular/cellular actives for beauty, to insights in testing and phygital escapism, here's a quick rundown of the top 12 trends we saw in beauty ingredients and concepts — plus several "honorable mentions."
Be sure to check out our full In-cosmetics 2025 Innovation Zone Trend Report on all the latest launches!
1. Longevity and Cellular Beauty
-Reversing/staving off cellular mechanisms (hallmarks) of aging
-Claims around number of "hallmarks" addressed
-Increasing collagen production, preventing collagen degradation
-Improving mitochondria functioning (above and beyond ATP boost)
-Improving cell to cell communication
-Repairing DNA
-Examining telomeres, sirtuins, protease activity
-"Cryptic transcription" and aberrant proteins
-Holistic approach to aging mechanisms
-Reducing dysfunctional mechanisms
-Cellular health focus
-Protein synthesis, autophagy, endoplasmic reticulum, protein folding
-Senescence
-Oxygenation and cell energy
-miRNAs
-Exosomes, goji berry stem cells
-Collagen "universe" and claims regarding how many collagens an ingredient can impact
-Skin "sustainability"
-Self-enabling skin health - improving hydration by acting on skin's own mechanisms (rather than adding them topically); boosting skin's antioxidant defenses
2. Optimization of Formulas and Ingredients
-Improved stability of vitamin C
-Hydrolyzed, functionalized, etc., ingredient manipulations
-Improved dispersion and solubility
-Bakuchiol altered to be hydrophilic and clear
-Focus on lowering the required levels of ingredients
-Electrolyte tolerance
-Longer playtime
-Aminopectin for improved color integrity, matte finish, shine control
-Cross-polymerized vegetable oils to impart new, previously unknown properties
-New molecules from cellulosics
-Dual phase side-by-side formula in one-chamber package separated by Galenic formula properties rather than plastic
-Controlled hydrolysis
-Do more with less, modern formulation/preservation (combining diols)
-Preservative ingredients with dispersion for color (lipstick) and sunscreens
-Combining efficacies, so 1+1 = 4
-Developing existing molecules further
-Controlled release of benefits for longer duration
3. Hair Care, Repair and Scalp Treatments
-Keratin and proteins for hair and scalp reinforcement
-Repair for split ends, "sealing" splits" (and visually demonstrating such); also focus on longer lasting effects
-Natural amino acids
-Quat-free conditioning/quat replacements
-Ceramides
-Identified sequence of hair damage
-Skinification of hair continues, although using this term less
-Shine, gloss
4. Mind, Beauty and Emotion Connections
-Topical skin care to improve sleep, relaxation, positive feelings for skin health and beauty benefits
-Wellness, skin glow, radiance
-Heart/mind/body strategy, tying "heart" to sustainability and eco consciousness
-Cognitive and behavioral testing
-Voice analysis and self perception
-Dopamine release
-Neuron length, reconnecting damaged portions
-Mood boosting
-Consumer interest in melatonin and cortisol
-Resyncing circadian clock
-Skin-brain-gut actives
5. Sustainable Solutions
-Upcycled tree bark, pulp, etc., from forestry, raspberry leaves
-Combined upcycled ingredients (e.g., from green coffee and lemon)
-Mass balance claims
-Focus on number of Green Principles met
-Reduced waste
-Enzymatic hydrolysis
-Water extraction or green chemistry-based extraction to maximize given phytoconstituents
-Lower energy
-Biodegradable
-Bacterial cellulose nano-sized fiber precision fermented
-Nagoya Protocol certified
6. Inflammation, Aging, Skin Brightening
-Inflammaging
-Oxidative damage and aging (oxi-inflammation - disrupt the cycle)
-Skin homogeneity, radiance, smoothness
-Focus on taurine and NAD, molecules consumers know
-Skin firmness, films/tightening, tensor, adhesion
-Anti-fatigue
-Dark circles (lipophilic phytochemical molecules to address them)
-HA is more an immediate filler while peptides provide longer term benefits
-Rice milk protein for elastin and fibronectin elasticity, firmness and hydration
-Osmolytes
-Botox-like effects and/or complementing Botox
7. Natural Replacements
-Natural retinol alternative (bakuchiol - manipulated to be hydrophilic and clear)
-Natural plastic alternatives (e.g., to PMMA)
-Natural, milder alternative to prescription dandruff treatments (piroctone olamine)
-Silicone replacements
-Carbomer replacements
8. Focus on Sensitive Skin
-Rosacea
-Chinese market target and consumers with sensitive skin
-Itch
-Soothing solutions
-Decreasing interleukins, cytokines
-Reducing swelling
9. AI Applied
-Microbiome modeling
-Automated formulating "consultant"
-Software to identify ingredient replacements, compatibilities, regulatory compliance
10. Texture and Sensory
-Esters
-Spheres
-Dual phase formula example (pump combines two "sides" of the formula"
-Elevating sensory experiences
-Cooling ingredients and formulas, apple mint
-Paste shampoo format
11. Sun and Light Protection
-Novel UV filters (coming soon)
-Blue/vis light protection to prevent photoaging
12. Safety/Efficacy Testing
-Major focus on proving longevity mechanisms
-New SPF test device to better align (to some extent) with new ISO methods
-Focus on establishing new data/evidence for existing ingredients rather than launching new ingredients
-Investing more in original in-house testing, not just relying on third parties' data
-Focus on inclusive panels for hair and skin testing, focus on multi-regional testing capabilities
-Ex vivo model to check melanin function - UV-free
-PFAs and nanoparticles
-Safety, pet safety
-Glow, hair loss
-Cognitive and behavioral testing
-Skin regeneration and wound healing
-Lipid mixes to assess antioxidant efficacy
-Microbiome balance, microbiome friendly
-TEER and safety testing
Honorable Mentions
-"Modern preservation" (think: co-preservative combinations)
-"Glyco-intelligence"
-Microbiome balance - porphyrins and aging; Lactobacillus in gut to help skin
-Tools to guide formulators in ingredient selections, combinations
-Is "benchmarking" limiting when it comes to formulating? Is it better to start from scratch with an original idea?
-Skinification of body care - neck/decollete anti-aging - focus on "tech neck" wrinkles
-Post-procedure care
-Film-forming interest
-Focus on offering preservative-free solutions
-Creating novelty/product interactivity/gameifying beauty/phygital escapism
-Making tech accessible to smaller brands
